Babylights, Balayage, Foilyage: What’s the Difference?
Navigating the world of hair coloring techniques can be overwhelming. While "balayage" originally referred to a specific technique, it’s now commonly used to describe the final look it achieves. At YLANJ HAIR in Edinburgh, we’re here to make things simple and help you feel confident in your decisions. Let’s explore the differences between these popular techniques and why we prioritise creating your desired results over rigidly adhering to one method.
What Are Classic Highlights?
Classic highlights are a traditional and well-loved hair colouring method. Using this technique, small sections of hair—usually 1-2 cm wide—are isolated, and a lightener like bleach or high-lift tint is applied before wrapping them in foils. The foils help to lift the hair’s color and create a brightened effect. This look can range from natural to bold, depending on the size of the weave and how much hair is left between the foils.
Historically, highlights were completed without toners, so the resulting color was based purely on the lift achieved during processing. Appointments typically took 2-3 hours, including application and development time, and required regular touch-ups every 6-8 weeks to maintain their polished appearance. Highlights are still popular for clients seeking bright, defined lightness from roots to ends.
What Is Balayage?
Balayage, which means "to sweep" in French, is a freehand coloring technique. Instead of using foils, lightener is painted directly onto the hair in a way that creates a natural, seamless transition from darker roots to lighter ends. This technique offers a softer, more lived-in effect compared to the defined lines of highlights.
While balayage is low-maintenance and perfect for those desiring a sun-kissed look, it has limitations. Since the hair is not enclosed in foils, the lightening process is less intense. This can result in a warmer finish, especially for darker hair. For those seeking cooler tones or dramatic lightening, alternative techniques like foilyage are often better suited.
Comparing Techniques: Finding the Right Look for You
Different techniques allow us to create a variety of effects tailored to each client’s unique preferences. Here’s a breakdown of the most commonly used methods:
Babylights: Ultra-fine weave that replicate the soft, blended brightness seen in children’s hair. They work well for achieving an all-over lightened effect but may not be ideal for those wanting bold contrast.
Baby Slices: Ultra-fine slice (instead of weave), slightly bolder than babylights, this method provides more noticeable pops of light. While still delicate, baby slices are less soft than babylights.
Balayage: The signature freehand technique, balayage involves sweeping lightener onto the hair to create a gradient effect. This is great for a warm, natural look but might take multiple sessions to achieve significant lightness on darker hair. Perfect for lighter hair, and a natural result. May also be used on dark hair, if the end goal is subtle and warm.
Foilyage: A hybrid of balayage and foiling, foilyage offers a brighter, cooler result. The foils trap heat, which allows for stronger lift, making this technique ideal for those who want a noticeable contrast, and on dark bases/colour build up.
Tip-Outs: A focused technique that lightens just the ends of the hair, adding bold pops of brightness to the overall style. This method is often combined with other techniques for a customised finish. More tip-outs = higher concentration of brightness through the ends.
Backwash Balayage: A quick and subtle method to refresh dull ends. This technique lifts the hair by ½ to 1 level, making it a great choice for clients with naturally lighter bases who want a brighter pop.
Root Melt/Shadow Root/Root Tap: These techniques are used to blend the line between lightened sections and natural roots. By applying demi-permanent colour at the root, we create a natural fade that grows out seamlessly, ensuring longevity and lower maintenance.
Reverse Balayage: Feeling like your colour is blocky, & one dimensional? A reverse balayage is a lowlight technique that focuses on replacing depth & dimension. For subtle changes, e.g. lowlights that are up to 2 shades darker, this is a relatively straight forward procedure. For a more dramatic change, this is classed as a colour correction where the hair needs to be ‘filled’ with warm pigment to support the target shade, to prevent the hair going khaki.
Why We Focus on Results-Based Pricing
We’ve found that offering individual services like freehand balayage or foilyage can sometimes lead clients to focus on cost rather than the technique that will best achieve their desired look. To simplify things and provide better clarity, we’ve opted for a tiered 'transformation' menu.
Here’s how it works: how light you want to be, and how light you already are determines which package best suits your needs. This approach ensures you’re getting the right service for your goals, without unexpected add-ons.
Transparent pricing can be tricky to get right. During our market research, we noticed that many salons only offered one “full head highlights” option. In most cases, this meant traditional highlights—not the modern blonding techniques clients expect today. A common complaint we saw online was clients being quoted one price but receiving a completely different bill after their appointment.
While consultations are more common now (and should really prevent any surprises at the till), we feel a tiered, packaged approach makes the process much clearer. After all, who isn’t getting their hair toned and blow-dried after a highlight/balayage service? Including these essentials in our packages feels like a no-brainer for a more seamless and predictable experience.
The Role of Inspiration Photos
When booking a consultation, bringing 3-5 inspiration photos can make a significant difference. These images help both you and your stylist understand the specific style, tone, and placement you’re envisioning. It’s equally helpful to share styles you dislike, particularly if it’s your first visit. This ensures your stylist has a clear understanding of your preferences and can tailor their approach to create a look you’ll love.
